Faucet and sink repair in Longmont, CO covers the small, constant annoyances that eventually turn into real problems if they're ignored: a dripping faucet, a sink that drains slowly, a loose or wobbly faucet base, or a sprayer that's stopped working right. None of these are usually urgent on their own, but a drip that's left running for months wastes real water, and a slow sink drain that's ignored long enough often turns into a full clog.
Why Faucets Start Dripping
Most dripping faucets come down to a worn washer, O-ring, or cartridge inside the faucet body, depending on the faucet's design. Older compression faucets use a rubber washer that wears out with use; newer cartridge and ceramic-disc faucets fail differently, usually from mineral buildup or a worn seal inside the cartridge itself. Knowing which type of faucet is installed determines which part actually needs replacing, which is why a persistent drip is worth having looked at rather than just tightening the handle harder, which usually makes the problem worse over time by stressing the same worn part.
Common Faucet and Sink Problems
- Persistent dripping — worn washer, O-ring, or cartridge depending on faucet type
- Low water pressure at one faucet only — often a clogged aerator, sometimes a partially closed shutoff valve
- Loose or wobbly faucet base — usually a loosened mounting nut underneath the sink, an easy fix once accessed
- Sink draining slowly — typically hair, soap scum, or debris in the P-trap or further down the line; see drain cleaning if snaking the trap doesn't resolve it
- Sprayer or pull-down hose not working — often a kinked or worn hose, sometimes a diverter valve issue inside the faucet
When a Repair Makes Sense vs. Replacement
A faucet under about 10 years old with a single failing part (a washer, cartridge, or O-ring) is almost always a straightforward repair. An older faucet, especially one that's had multiple parts fail over time, or one with visible corrosion at the base, often makes more sense to replace outright, since sourcing parts for a discontinued older model can end up costing more in time than a new faucet would cost outright.
Before You Call
- Note whether the drip is from the spout itself or from the base/handle area, since that points to different parts
- Check if low pressure is at one faucet only or the whole house; whole-house low pressure is a different, larger issue
- If a shutoff valve under the sink is stuck or won't fully close, mention that too, since it sometimes needs replacing alongside the faucet work
Sink and Countertop Considerations
A sink itself (as opposed to the faucet) rarely needs "repair" in the same sense, but a cracked porcelain or cast iron sink, or a failing garbage disposal mount, can affect how a faucet sits and functions. If a kitchen sink replacement is part of a larger project, see garbage disposal repair and installation for what to consider if the disposal is being reinstalled or replaced at the same time.
What Affects the Cost
Type of faucet
Compression, cartridge, and ceramic-disc faucets use different internal parts, which affects repair cost.
Age and part availability
Parts for a current model are quicker and cheaper to source than for a discontinued older faucet.
Repair vs. replacement
Installing a newly purchased faucet is a different scope than repairing multiple failing parts on an old one.
Shutoff valve condition
A stuck or failing shutoff valve under the sink sometimes needs replacing as part of the same visit.
Number of fixtures
Multiple faucets serviced in one visit is typically more efficient than separate calls.
Want to know what your faucet & sink repair job actually costs, not just what affects it? Call (213) 635-0350 and we'll walk through it with you.
Frequently Asked Questions
Tightening the handle harder doesn't fix a worn washer, O-ring, or cartridge inside the faucet, and it can actually stress the mechanism further. The drip needs the specific worn part replaced, which depends on what type of faucet is installed.
It's not usually an emergency, but a continuous drip wastes a meaningful amount of water over weeks and months, and the part causing it typically doesn't get better on its own. It's a low-cost, low-urgency repair that's worth scheduling rather than ignoring indefinitely.
This is usually a clogged aerator (the small screen at the tip of the faucet) or a partially closed shutoff valve under the sink, both quick to check and fix. Low pressure at every faucet in the house is a different, larger issue worth mentioning separately when you call.
A single worn part on a faucet under about 10 years old is usually a straightforward repair. An older faucet with multiple issues or visible corrosion, especially if it's a discontinued model, often costs less in the long run to replace than to keep sourcing parts for.
Yes, call and describe what's happening and we can often tell you what's likely involved before scheduling a visit.